Oil change: Pretty straightforward, just remove the retainer screw and let the oil drip into a basin. Remove oil filter, continue to let oil drip into basin.
Replace retainer screw washer, bolt back on. Screw in new oil filter ensuring that you cover the sealing casket with some oil, as to not destroy it when tightening. Top up with oil!
Only had two issues doing this, the first that I didn't have a 24mm socket wrench to get the retainer screw out - a normal wrench doesn't enter the hole. had to go out and buy one. The second was getting the #%@&€!!! Oil filter out. I punctured a screwdriver threw it and hammered, pulled, pushed ... But the darn thing was stuck. Sprayed some WD40 on it and let it set for a while. Sort of did the trick but took some hammering to get it out - you can see this in the time lapse
Rear brake pads: Over did this one, as I think it can be done without removing the rear wheel. Basically removed rear wheel, removed locking clamp, removed locking pin. Watch out as this looks loose but you need to hammer it out, it has a sort of expander head does doesn't let it fall out. That's why in the video I'm looking at the Mac, it's the garage manual to make sure I didn't crap something up! Make sure to press the brake piston back prior to fitting the new brake pads or else the disc won't fit in the middle.
Air filter: No video of this, but really easy and fast. Open top body part (battery cover). Unscrew air intake cover, replace, screw back on
Battery: same complication as the air filter..... Just made sure to remove negative pole first and when replacing add negative pole last.
Spark plugs: this was the most complicated replacement. The manual says only to replace at 40M but decided to do a compete overhaul. This was the most complicated maintenance item as it involves removing all frontal body arts (battery cover, left panel, right panel, front beak) and the air intake structure. Leveraged replacing battery & air filter to already have them removed. The difficulty of the air intake structure a the tubes that need to be disconnected & connected without a lot of space to do so. Also need to be careful to disconnect all electrical connectors of temp sensors, accelarator sensor, etc...
After all that, before getting to the actual spark plug, the spark plug coil or connector needs to be done with a special BMW tool. Darn that's hard to pull off!!
Only thing I didn't do was check the valve clearance - didn't have the necessary tools, gaskets, etc... Think she will survive a few thousand km's more, No weird engine clanking or anything.
